Germany has all things “gummi”.

They have full stores of just gummi items- in every flavor and color you can dream up.

Naturally this one is next to the Hard Rock Cafe…because gummi bears and rock music were made for each other.

Yep, that’s a gummi pizza.

The grocery stores are also filled a wide assortment of flavors, including original, sour, peach, cherry, and cola (?)…

Even when you sleep, the reach of the gummi empire is not far away.

Gummi Sheep- Found on our pillows when we checked into our hotel in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

Athens did me in though.

Maybe you’ve heard…They kind of like olives in Greece- and as an olive fan myself, I was happy to sample the goods.

I even bought an olive-colored scarf-  though I wasn’t conscious of the color choice until after we were on the plane heading home.   It must have been a subliminal thing.

My most exciting souvenir from Athens though?  The sandals.

Yes, I realize it’s the middle of winter, but I think I’ve established my fondness for a good pair of shoes…or really, any pair of shoes.

On our first night in Athens, I stumbled across a blog that touted the “poet sandal maker of Athens“, Stavros Melissinos and his son, Pantelis, who has taken over the business.  The blog talked about the general awesomeness of the shop- which custom fits every pair of leather sandals- and the celebrities the shop has fitted.  The Beatles.  Jackie O.  Barbra Streisand.  Jeremy Irons.  Sophia Loren.  The list went on and on and on.

I was intrigued- who wouldn’t want custom fitted sandals from Athens? – but I was a little concerned about the price, as I do not have a celebrity paycheck.  But, we decided to check it out.

The shop was just past the Athens flea market, off of a very busy street- but it was kind of unassuming, and easy to pass if you weren’t looking for it.  There was a placard of sandals outside the shop- but then there are placards of sandals on practically every corner.

Inside, was a different story.

Stacks and stacks of leather sandals of all styles and sizes.  Poster after poster of the celebrities and their sandals from the shop.  It smelled great (if you like the smell of leather, like I do!).

Pantelis Melissinos helped us personally- first by helping us choose a style, and then a size.  I chose the John Lennon – though I was tempted to try them all on…

Once the sole was a good fit, Pantelis set to making the sandal fit my feet exactly.   The main sandal strap was a bit large, but within minutes he shortened it so the sandal wouldn’t move from my foot.  Then, as I was wearing the sandals, he punched holes in the ankle strap to get the perfect fit and cut the leather to the perfect length.

Brisket also chose a pair- but they didn’t have his size in that style.  Not a problem- they could custom make them on the spot.  Once they got the right sole, it was only a few minutes before Pantelis was adjusting the leather to fit his feet too- talking and joking with us and Li the entire time.

Brisket’s foot, obviously…I hope.

And the fit?  Perfect.  They are the most comfortable sandals I think I own- and the leather will form to our feet and get more comfortable as we wear them.

The final price?  Only 30 Euro each.  A great deal for a custom-fitted pair of leather sandals- and an experience I won’t  be able to find in the U.S.

Is anyone heading to Athens soon so I can get another pair?

Athens- Day 2

We woke up without much of a plan on our second day- Brisket mentioned wanting to see the Temple of Zeus, so we headed that way, passing numerous olive trees, orange trees, and stray dogs looking for a little attention.

In a lot of ways, Athens didn’t feel like a European city- at least not like the other European cities we’ve visited.  It has a bit of the old-world flavor of Rome, but it definitely had an exotic Middle-Eastern vibe to it, too. 

It was quite a bit cooler than the previous day- and a bit rainy- so after we saw the temple ruins, we headed to the new Acropolis Museum.   Built over ancient ruins, entire sections of the floor are clear glass to show the different buildings and tilework.

Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed inside of the museum- but the sculptures were beautiful.  It was a nice way to get out of the rain for a few hours.

I wanted to check out the “authentic” Athenian market after lunch- so we headed to the subway.  

I had read that Athenian pickpockets target Americans on the subway – and to keep an eye out – so we made sure we were prepared.  Sure enough, we were waiting for a train when a man approached us to “look at the map” behind Brisket.  He kept inching closer and closer to Brisket, who was keeping an eye on Li, so I made sure I kept an eye on him. 

Suddenly, a sharp whistle from behind me echoed through the subway, and I turned my head.  I whipped my head back to look at Brisket, and caught the eye of the man standing only a step away from him.  He saw me staring at him, grimaced, and hurried out of the station.   Maybe it was my look- or that Brisket doesn’t carry anything in his back pockets- but I have a feeling the man didn’t leave just because he had the wrong station…

After that excitement, it was a bit of a let-down that the market was closed when we arrived.  The stalls were all set up- but there was nothing left to buy.

We headed back to the subway for our final stop of the day, walking from Syntagma Square down to the Olympic park.

Considering the number of ruins we had already seen at this point, we assumed it would be the original Olympic park.   Try 2004.

Neat, but it reminded me of the football stadiums back in the States.

With that, we picked up our luggage, and headed back to the subway- this time to catch a train to the airport.  We had an early flight the next morning, and needed our beauty rest.

Stay tuned for Shopping in Greece- Or how I found the world’s most comfortable sandals…

Um…Not that we did that.

I was going to give a run-down of our time in Munich two weekends ago- but then, before I could blink, we were in Athens for a long weekend, and my thoughts are still revolving around olives and ouzo…

Not to say Munich wasn’t great- it was a lot of fun- but we pretty much saw everything we saw when we went in 2008.  Except for the mass revelry.

But Athens!  ATHENS!  The cradle of Western civilization!  Some of my German neighbors would say the downfall of the European Union…but I liked it.

Yes, it was kind of dirty, covered in graffiti, and we were almost pick-pocketed, but I still liked it.

And yes, the gutters are lined with marble.

The people were some of the friendliest I’ve ever met in Europe- especially with Li.  Burly men were talking baby talk to her in the hopes of getting a smile.  It was funny.

We arrived Friday night, and took the subway to the Acropoli stop closest to our hotel/apartment.   It’s a bit of a shock coming off the of the subway to see ancient statues, and then, looming above, the Acropolis.

We found our hotel, and after some room shuffling, we went out for dinner and a stroll through the city.  Our apartment was located between the Acropolis and the Temple of Zeus in the Plaka area of Athens, so it was pretty easy to navigate without a map.  We just had to look for the big ancient ruin on top of the hill to our left to know where we were.

Our first full day was mostly site-seeing- climbing up to the Parthenon, and some shopping and Greek food.  The weather, compared to Germany, was perfect.

Li still insisted on her hood most of the time we were outside though, out of reflex to the German rain.

Brisket and Li climbing up the hill from the Theater of Dionysus…we’re tough (naive?) and decided to skip the easier path up the hill.

The Greeks know how to appeal to the theater geek in me- there was a ruin of an amazing theater every 20 steps or so.

Before too long though, we were at the entrance to the Acropolis- and had a great view of the city stretching out in all directions.

Li was hoping to keep the paparazzi away…

The Parthenon was beautiful.  It’s a weird feeling standing in the shadows of something you’ve seen in history books your entire life.   Even weirder to think about how this amazing building is just background scenery for most Athenians.

I wanted to slip one of these “souvenirs” into my luggage- but they were roped off from the public…and probably weigh a half ton.

Li was more concerned about her hydration needs than the architecture but Brisket and I were impressed.  Brisket has now also carried Li on his shoulders in 4 countries…I think he’s going for a record.

The temple of Athena, next to the Parthenon.

The view from the walls of the Acropolis- and of the 5,000 Italian teenagers visiting the same day we did.

And, finally, the Temple of Victory as you exit.  It’s built on the edge of the Acropolis so that you would have to look up to it as you leave.

To be continued- Day 2, and Greek Shopping

Watching German cartoons in Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Instead, she’s a chip off the old block. 

Off to Athens this weekend…back on Monday!

I think I’m going to start every new year by traveling somewhere. Ordinarily the beginning of the new year is a downer- the holidays are done, you have these new rules you’re trying to live by, the weather is no longer picturesque…it’s just blah. 

But traveling right around the new year?   It really helps to distract from all of the above.  It’s already January 10th, and I just realized last night that we’re now in 2012!

Brisket’s family came to visit this past week, his brother Stag and his wife Heidi*.   Neither had been to Germany before, so Brisket and I set out to show them the glory of a Germany winter…it basically involves either rain or snow and a couple of castles thrown in for good measure.

We took off a couple of days and drove to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (from here on out GaPa) and then Munich**.  GaPa is home to Germany’s tallest mountain- the Zugspitze.

GaPa is on the border of Germany and Austria and nestled between multiple mountain ranges (not just the Zugspitze) and the route we drove wound us up and down mountain passes and through great little Alpine villages.  

GaPa is a pretty city- and pretty easy to explore, and a lot of options for things to do…if you don’t mind going out in the ever-present snow. And it snowed.  And snowed.  And snowed.  It was also kind of foggy, so it was hard to actually SEE the mountains once we got there…

The first night we got some German food, and then took a nice (wet) stroll through the pedestrian area.   In many of the stores we saw the traditional clothes for sale- and I felt myself humming the songs of The Sound of Music.  I also now have an irrational urge to buy a dirndl for myself, and claim it’s my Halloween costume for the next 15 years.

There were also the standard cuckoo clocks and chocolate shops…along with one or two other oddities.

Your guess is as good as mine…

The next day we headed out in more snow to Neuschwanstein- otherwise known around the world as the “Cinderella” castle.  

It, again, was a wet, snowy walk- though this time it was all uphill.  Brisket was a trooper though- and carried Li on his shoulders the entire way. 

Once at the top, it was beautiful.  No pictures inside were allowed- but we had plenty of time for outside pictures. 

Brisket and Li- awestruck by the beauty of the castle…and the tastiness of the bratwurst in Li’s hand.

As far as castles go, it’s perfectly preserved and almost everything you see is original to the castle.  I thought it was also kind of sad- the castle was only used a couple of hundred nights before King Ludwig was declared insane, and drowned mysteriously in Munich.

The next day dawned clear enough to finally see the mountains…and we decided to take advantage of it.

Unfortunately, the weather on the Zugspitze was not cooperating with us- so we headed to another mountain, the Altspitze. 

On the ground waiting for the gondola?   Cloudy…Calm.

At the top of the mountain?  Snow and high winds.   If hell turns out to be cold, it’ll look a lot like the top of the Altspitze that day.

Li and I braving the winds…

Stag fighting the urge to run inside…

The cafe we took refuge in from the wind and snow…the little figure in the middle of the picture is Stag…

It was so windy that they closed down the mountain, while we were up there.   Yes- CLOSED IT DOWN.

We did not have any ski equipment, causing me to have a mild panic attack as visions of the movie ALIVE flashed through my head.   Instead of cannibalism though, we were able to sit in a warm cafe and wait it out.

Some of us consoled themselves with adult beverages…

When the wind refused to let up though, the ski officials called it, and we were told that there was one final gondola going back down the mountain in an hour…and if we were smart, and did not want to sleep up there, we better be on it.

Everyone packed into the gondola- even the cafe workers- and we headed slowly back down, swaying to the wind.  

Li was completely oblivious of our impending doom.   The adults, though, took a minor inventory of the supplies everyone was carrying, in case we got stuck half-way down.

We did make down safely- though I might stick to climbing mountains in better (sunnier) weather.

“Mama is a wuss.”

*Their self-chosen names for my blog- Brisket’s brother mentioned something about being “White Stallion” but was drowned out by my laughing.

**Munich will be another post due to the craziness that was Garmisch-Partenkirchen

It was awesome…

Happy New Year!

It’s a little hard to believe we’ve been here over a month…It’s also a little hard to believe that tomorrow is Christmas. 

Brisket and I both had Friday off, so to bookend the Christmas season, we headed to one more Christmas market.  Basil kicked off the season for us, Rudesheim am Rhein finished it up.

Rudesheim is a small city on the Rhein (obviously) and is famous in the area for the wine they produce.  The folklore says that the best grapes grow on south-facing slopes, and all of Rudesheim is south-facing- as you can see by all the grapevines.

To get to Rudesheim from the South though, which we did, you need to take a ferry across the Rhein.   The closest bridge to Rudesheim is about 45 minutes away- and it seems the area has built up a pretty good system (some might say “scam”) to get people across on the ferry.   The ferry for our car cost about 5 Euro each way- and was a ten minute ride- but saved us an hour and a half of driving.

It’s pretty much a wine-lover’s town, with lots of little wine shops and a wine museum (closed the day we went…).  Unfortunately, Brisket is a beer lover, while I prefer a good Pepsi, so that aspect was kind of wasted on us.

Bottom line roughly translated: “…to grasp it in the bottle, oh bliss in the glass.”

Yeah, they like wine.

The city though was very hilly, with lots of winding alleys and interesting wood-carved buildings.   The Christmas market spread out through the old town, which made wandering fun- especially with a steaming mug of Gluhwein and a kasewurst in my stomach.

The biggest surprise?  All the tourists!   We heard English spoken by almost all the other tourists around us.  I even saw a guy in a Green Bay Packer hat.   We didn’t know if maybe there was a USO tour to the area, or if was just that much of a tourist attraction, but it felt odd understanding all the conversations around us for once.

Nutella Crepes- universal in any language.

I guess Brisket, Li and I are starting to look a bit more like locals though- we saw a group taking a family picture and asked (in English) if they wanted us to take it.   We were thanked extensively in German by them- only to find out they were also American.  I also played translator for an American tourist at the food stalls- so I guess my German is improving…

So, you tell me- are we looking more German?

Merry Christmas from the Cotterpin House!  

So, it may not come as a surprise that as a kid, I had an obsession preoccupation with making sure, as soon as it was dark, that the blinds/shades in our house were closed.   It made me uncomfortable to think about people peering in at us from the dark, watching us as we ate or watched tv.  That “preoccupation” only grew in college, when one night my roommate and I discovered a young “admirer” of mine standing outside of our first floor window, looking in at us as we watched Conan O’Brien.  Creepy.   He said that he was trying to get our attention because the doors to our dorm were locked and he couldn’t get in.   I say thank God those doors were locked.

Ok, maybe my preoccupation is not so weird…

In the US, we have mini-blinds- which I open and close like clockwork in the morning and at dusk.

In Germany, there are no mini-blinds…instead, there’s metal rolling shutters.   Much like you would pull down over storefronts in sketchy areas to prevent robberies…or to keep the zombies from overrunning your compound- ala “I am Legend”.

Looking up at our apartment- you can see the roller shutters to our bedroom (the two right windows) are half-open…

Yes, I do read a fair amount of science fiction…why do you ask?

It appears that this isn’t because my neighborhood is particularly dangerous- I think our biggest threat is the local rooster waking us up too early- but it just seem to be standard issue on most of the houses here. 

They’re actually pretty clever- there is a system attached to each window (the beige plastic box on the lower left side of the window) that lets you raise and lower them without having to open the window. 

While using them instead of mini-blinds does feel a bit like sealing ourselves into a bunker for the night, I think they also provide good protection in bad weather- at least better protection than a storm window.   And they definitely will slow down any zombie attacks.

*Except for blogging about my family and my life to random strangers on the internets.